We suggest utilizing the Alkaline Buffer along with the Acid Buffer for this reason. These buffers are designed to be utilized in conjunction with each other in order to provide buffering, but also to target a desirable pH. You may use them in accordance with the ratios listed on the bottle. To reach a pH of 6.5, you might need to use the ratio of 1:1.3 (Acid:Alkaline). To accomplish this use the following process.
First determine the right dosage for the Alkaline Buffer for your own size aquarium. Now, to be able to maintain the ratio at 1:1.3, you just divide that 1 teaspoon by 1.3. Remember that you might need to-do this frequently for many days to be able to create a buffer system in your aquarium. Once you’ve stabilized your aquarium water, you need to just must include the buffers at water changes.
They aren’t meant to be the ONLY indication of ammonia that you use. You still have to utilize the liquid tests on a usual basis. I’ve noted that each and every time I have ammonia show up with the liquid test there is a subtle change of shade on the Ammonia Alert. Once I changed this I have had no further troubles. When I have had a problem with any equipment, I regularly notify the maker and make them talk to me about my particular scenario and normally we find the issue.
Clarity is totally safe for use with shrimps and inverts. It is necessary to utilize Clarity with fine mechanical filtration because Clarity actually makes the particulates larger, enabling them to be more easily filtered from the body. Immediately after adding the Clarity, your water will cloud (because is a flocculating agent). Clarity. It can stay this way for some hours, typically no more than 18 to 24 in extraordinary cases. So far as I can tell, Superge is a glass cleaner. The Lucidity will work for truly clearing biological and particulate matter within the tank.
Purigen is chemical filtration media that removes organic nitrogenous waste; it does so by nitrate, nitrite, and controlling ammonia. As for regeneration, just use unscented household bleach, following the directions just as stated on the bottle.
In my experience with this item it takes about 2 weeks to reduce the Nitrates in my 5-5 gallon reef tank from 18ppm to the 45ppm Nitrate goal amount. In case you are late changing the De – Nitrate, and they spike, you find yourself doing water changes waiting 2 weeks for it to work – and to get under 20 ppm before reloading the merchandise. THEREFORE. replace the De-Nitrate on time to keep low levels! I plan to keep using De – Nitrate as a bonus makes running my carbon canister unnecessary, and because in the long run it’s powerful, safe for clams. It costs me about $3 a month with no regeneration cycles needed, so it’s less hassle than some of the alternatives I looked at… IN the event you usually replace the product promptly and keep a great flow running through it.
Yes, I would recommend the product to my buddies.
From my experience talking to the average hobbyist around here, most people swear by the Seachem line of products. I like to use CSM+B with some additions for magnesium and a more bioavailable iron source. To be honest, calcium deficiency isn’t a problem I’ve ever observed before; at a blind shot in the dark I’d say maybe the magnesium is switching out for it, or feeding provides enough.
I’d like to urge Seachem Flourish Products to everyone who owns or wishes to begin a planted aquarium.
None of my tanks run a CO2 system, but since I started using Flourish Excel in addition to all the other Flourish products two years ago I have found excellent results.
These products are outstanding for fighting off algae and for maximising plant growth. (Flourish Excel in particular)
The other useful Seachem products include; Flourish Potassium, Flourish, Flourish Nitrogen and Flourish Phosphorus. I highly recommend the utilization of Flourish and Flourish Excel in combination with the Potassium, Nitrogen and Phosphorus products.
I can only expect the advantages would be what Seachem has said in that its a superior biomedia, but I like that it’s smaller than bio-needles and ceramic tubes, particularly plastic balls, therefore it has a tendency to fill media baskets better, there’s much more media say per inch, I just recently shifted my fish to a fresh tank, went half of my Matrix from one tank for the other with new Matrix as well and its safe to say after 3 or 4 weeks I’ve seen almost no Ammonia or nitrites despite being stocked drastically with fish and the new Matrix was colonized very fast.
You are able to increase your low gh with Epsom Salt (MGS04), maybe 1/2 teaspoons at-a time. GH is largely plant food, whereas KH increases your water’s capability to resist ph swings, always a great thing. Each time ph changes a number of tenths of a spot or more, our fish must readjust portion of the basic metabolism in response. Fish can adjust and prosper in a ph which is other than their so called “best” value, provided it is kept constant. As you try to lower it when it is excessive the same thing may then occurr in the other direction. Enough of this bouncing ph and you might find sick or dead fish. Do not think you would want to get caught up in this. Simply let your fish adjust to the water you have.
Cupramine is superb as a remedy for ich or velvet. Very affective and I have seen no issues with copper sensitive fish or destroying valuable bacteria. BUT I wouldn’t use it on live rock unless you are prepared for the possibility of never putting corals in. Also any calcerous substrate (rock or sand) will absorb Cupramine so frequent testing and additions of Cupramine will be needed.
A good value, the beads are best used in smaller amounts and changed often (i.e., with water change). Place beads in a small net bag in a higher flow sump area. Important : because unrinsed beads can harm corals rinse beads before use. (Rinsing will generate a modest amount of heat.) The absorbed phosphate is not going to leach back to the water.
(1) Easy to use : , and this bag it, rinse place in high flow volume part of sump.
(2) Cleans up the diatom phosphate and silicate high bloom and other difficulties..
(3) Stores easily until desired.
(1) Some talk about aluminum oxide used for better phosphate absorption and while it can discharge aluminum to hard corals. Seachem documents with a study that no leaching occurs at pH around 8.0.
(2) Not-for use in phosphate buffered freshwater
(3) Decide whether to use small amount and judge the water quality visually or use a phosphate kit to quantify results.
Seachem Prime is a dechlorinator, which you need every time you add (tap)water to the tank.
Most ‘bacteria-in-a-bottle’ products only work some of the time at best. Biomature and Seachem Stability appear to be the best. I know from experience that Biomature (previously called Seamature) does usually work. It adds ammonia and bacteria.
Nutrafin Cycle supposedly includes bacteria, and this and a number of other similar items are suggested to be used every time-you do a water change. It is completely unnecessary, when you are doing a water change as no bacteria are lost.
So yes, typically the only chemicals you ever need to add to your tank are a dechlorinator whenever you add water, and ammonia in some form whenever you cycle the filter.
Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for twenty four hours in a non metalic container in-a well-ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuard, Prime, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. First color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen is prepared for re-use. Caution : some slime coat products may eternally defile render regeneration and Purigen difficult. Do not reuse if scent of chlorine is detectable. Just in case of uncertainty, soak beads in little amount of water and test for remaining chlorine with a chlorine test kit.
So, as long as you are using Stability daily for 7 days and Prime every 48 hours through the entire cycling procedure, then there’s no reason that you can’t change all of your fish at once. To give an example to you, when we moved into our new facility, we needed to create a tank very rapidly for our ribbon cutting ceremony. We introduced over 100 cichlids into a 265-gallon aquarium, used Stability and Prime as I’ve advised you to-do so, and did not lose a single fish.